Back to the start

I'm back at the hotel where I almost exactly a year ago began my journey and Paraguayan experience, now meeting a new group of participants that just came here. Now I'm the one teaching them particularities of Paraguayan culture, telling them about tereré, crazy bus systems and phone companies. The things people here taught me a year ago, and the things I've learned during my year here. Seeing them leave with their families, just about to begin this amazing experience fills me with a little bit of envy, but at the same time, I am really happy I don't have to go through the whole process of adapting to a new family, culture and language once again.
Coming back to where it all began, I realize that I'm now ready to leave Paraguay, with a lot more peace of mind than I came with, a new language, a new family of heart, more knowledge and much more acceptance towards other people and life in general.
I have lived through one of the hardest, yet most enriching experiences one possibly could, and I am so grateful I have had this opportunity.

Take care and stay safe

Buenos Aires!

And so I've finally ventured out of my small, cozy Paraguay and back into the real world and civilization. At least that is what it feels like to come from Asunción to Buenos Aires. After a really Nice 20-hour bus ride(no irony it was really good..!) I was shocked to see clean streets, almost functioning traffic systems, 4-lane roads and busses that don't look like they will fall apart, not to mention the convenience of not being sexually harassed by every male you meet.
The architecture down here is impressive, it is so pretty.

One of the best features of my stay in the capital of Argentina is my choosing the cheapest accommodation I possibly could, a little hostel in the area Monserrat, close to the famous obelisk.
The hostel is slightly worn down, and I have a bed in a room with 7 other people, but compared to how I have lived the last year, it is high standard indeed.
The best thing about being at a hostel rather than hotel is that you meet other travelers.
To my enormous delight there are two brazilians staying here. One looks like Bob Marley, smells so much like weed that I could find him from across the city and is constantly trying to get into the pants of all girls he meets. Despite this he is a pleasant human being, although I might think so only because he is Brazilian ... The other person of said nationality is equally nice, although sometimes a little bit strange. He is a homeless guy who has traveled all over the world with ships (it used to be his job), and he is trying to teach me a bit Portuguese, the times he speaks. Sometimes he gets all quiet and meditative and impossible to contact.
Staying with us is also a Russian guy with his son. The former looks and acts a bit like the albino assassin from the Da Vinci Code, but is pleasant all the same, the latter seem to be hyperactive and doesn't speak Spanish.
Then there is the Canadian that pretty much just wants to leave as soon as possible (he hasn't been home in 8 years and his ticket constantly gets postponed), the guy from the US that does some sort of work here(that's as specific as he gets when asked) and the adorable welsh girl that came here to spend her vacation, from London, where she studies medicine. She has the cutest accent ever and I am so jealous of her for living in London... We are all alone travelers, which is good in the aspect that you can meet way more people and you are much more free that whilst traveling in company.
I'm not sure if it is because I have gotten so used to getting into families that aren't my own over the past year, but I instantly got myself integrated in the little family our hostel group constitutes.
Being this social is very different from how I was only a year ago, and it just goes to show how much I have grown and changed during my exchange.

My trip had a rather crappy start though. My camera, for which I worked and saved money for about a year, got stolen. It was actually an ingenious robbery, and whilst being really pissed and sad, I am also quite impressed.
I don't know wether the whole thing was arranged but I do suspect it.
Somehow I got splashed with a liquid I suspect was butanoic acid (at least it smelled like it, for those not knowing the smell, it is a bit like a mix of puke and vinegar and really really unpleasant. I don't have any desire to actually know what it was...). At this point, an old lady comes up next to me and "helps" me to whipe the mess off with some napkins, I suppose to distract me. Also, an old man comes up with a water bottle, offering me some to get it off. This all happened really fast, and I didn't have time to react. It was first afterwards, when the couple had taken off in a taxi that I realized my camera was gone (it had been in my bag). I am still really angry about it, about the camera which was my little baby but even more actually about the 16 GB memory card it had inside, with photos from all the year.
However I decided that I will go for the positive thinking line. I could let this take me down and ruin my whole trip or I can just be happy nothing worse happened to me, and also now i don't have to bother with bringing it on the plane during my flight back... You can always replace material loss and with some saving and working I might get a new camera in a few years.

Another thing I'm noticing here is that my Spanish is very Paraguayan. So much so that one of my Brazilian roommates on occasion has asked me to repeat in Spanish because he "doesn't understand Paraguayan". Even so, everyone else understands me and it feels very good to be able to communicate with the people in their own language.
Another thing with Argentinians is that they don't like Paraguay very much. When I say I stayed in Paraguay for a year they look at me with a pitying gaze as though they want to console me and cautiously ask me what I think about Paraguay, eager to engage in some trash-talking about their neighbor. Now, I am the first to trash Paraguay, but only I can do it, because it is my country. If Argentinians want to trash it, I am the first to say that it actually isn't that bad. It's funny how you can grow such affinity for a country you sort of also hate. Or let's say love to hate...

Take care, stay safe

Quick guide to "el colectivo"- Gran Asunción, Paraguay

Taking "el colectivo"- that is, the busses- is an easy, cheap way to travel in the gran Asunción area, when you wish to get to a determined point and arrive Paraguayan time- more or less an hour late. 

Some words that well describe Paraguayan busses are "hot", "chaotic", "noisy", "crazy", "unorganized", "humbling" and "simple". As a visitor in Paraguay, you may or may not find this way of traveling charming. Most of the Paraguayans, however, don't, and arguing the point is usually a lost case. Keeping some advice in mind will not necessarily make the ordeal more pleasant but it will prepare you.

How to get on:

Standing by the road, fix your bus of choice with an intensive stare and extend your hand. Wherever the bus is it will stop. Be quick about entering, or it will leave again. 

How to get off:

In general the busses have one of two systems to signal your desire to descend. Either there's a button above the back door you've got to press, or a rope in the ceiling you've got to pull. On occasions neither of these systems are adapted, in which case you can shout your lungs out and hope you get heard, or just wait until the bus stops. Specific stops isn't a thing, you stop the bus wherever you wish to. 

Practical info:
Bus fee: nowadays 2.000 gs
Stops: everywhere, on any street or route. There are, however, certain stops, evident by the sign "Parada"
Time tables: unknown. Busses just seem to appear at about 5 am and disappear during the night. 
Security: high if you're smart about it. Always keep a close eye on your belongings and don't take the busses alone late at night. 

Interesting facts

#1 the space on a bus may seem limited but is, in fact, infinite. This is not a joke, laws of nature just do not apply. However full the bus may seem there's always space for 10 more people. The next five might be a bit painful but you will rarely be refused a spot. 
#2 the busses usually have signs saying to where they are destined. This does not, however, mean that they necessarily go to there. If you are not absolutely sure and don't feel like a roadtrip, ask the driver by saying your destination in an inquisitive tone of voice. 
#3 at what to you may seem very random times a bus can stop in the middle of nowhere for cleaning. Depending on your nerves and the time of day this may or may not be a reason to panic. If it seems that you are going in an off direction and empties, figure out if this is the case. Another sign is that you are meeting busses from the same bus line. 
#4 while riding the bus, don't be surprised by the sellers that will get on. Even if the space is next to nonexistent (see #1) they WILL get on the bus, and force their way through, front to back. They sell everything from fruits and candy, to necklaces and bags. 
Sometimes you will also be accompanied by live music, usually of rather poor quality...

Bus crew tips

#1: upon entering get as far back as possible. It makes it easier to get off. 

#2: if you are the only one getting off, don't expect the bus to stop completely. It can and may but just as well may not. Try getting of at a traffic light or jump when the speed seems reasonably slow. 

#3: if you're the last in a group to get on, you'll probably have to stand on the last step while the bus drives of. The driver won't wait until you've paid your ticket, you do that while the bus is in motion. 

Balance!!
More often than not you'll have to stand up. Keep in mind that Paraguayan traffic is crazy in general, and that is also true for the busses. They stop a fair 5 times per minute so get a good grip and be steady on your feet.

Suddenly it is over

Today (actually yesterday but as I am still awake I count it as today) was possibly one of the most excruciating days of my life.
The day I had to say goodbye to all my fellow AFS-ers and see them pass security on their way back home.
I don't really have words to describe how I am feeling this moment, it is very very weird.

The time leading up to today went so incredibly fast, and it is still hard to grasp that my time as an AFS exchange student is over, although I stay in the country for a couple of weeks more.
How can something that has become your life suddenly just end?

I am not really understanding that this has actually happened yet, I am still in major denial and convinced I will see my friends on thursday as usual. I am waiting for the moment it just hits me, I doubt it will be benign... I don't even want to think about my own departure yet...

Turning one year older

I'm at my 10th month in Paraguay, the residing time is so short that I'm almost starting to panic about it. I can't believe the time while seeming excruciatingly outdrawn can have passed so fast.
I will be the first to admit that seven- eight months ago, all I wanted was for this time to come so I could finally end this weird and scary experience and come back to safe ground.
Now? I'm positively terrified of the 21st of July and my flight date. The thought of leaving my life here is devastating. Even so I am trying to do the best of the situation and just enjoy my Paraguayan life as much as I possibly can, practicing my "live here and now"-skills a full.
This Saturday was my nineteenth birthday, which means I am now and old and respectable lady with crackling bones (of which only the last is even slightly true..).
I celebrated this by going to a university in central Asunción and replacing one of my dearest friends as English teacher, seeing as she could not possibly make it to her morning class. It was quite a thrill teaching them, surprisingly enough. I have always suffered from a slight stage fright but at this occasion found myself surprisingly comfortable in front of 17 almost complete strangers, explaining the logic of my favorite language.

At night, a group of my favorite AFS-people came to my house to eat tacos and, I kid you not, THE BEST CHOCOLATE BROWNIES MAN KIND HAS EVER EXPERIENCED. I was so proud of them...
A majority of people left as the night rolled in, and we were about 8 people and a bottle of vodka left. This might sound like a disaster waiting to happen but it was actually rather tidy and orderly. We learned a lot about each other while playing some, to me completely new, drinking games.
We stayed up until 3 in the morning, and it was a very successful night.

Some other things that are going on in my life: I have started at a dance academy. It is possibly the best I've ever done, even though it's tough and I sometimes feel I am so close to death that I see the light or just frustrated because it doesn't work out, it is such an exhilarating feeling once you make even one step right. And more over, I've always wanted to dance and now that I've started I just can't understand why I never did it before. I have these classes every afternoon at least 2 hours, and study ballet, classic contemporary, Danza paraguaya, jazz, artistic and Arabic dance, every once in a while replaced with stretching so brutal it comes close to torture. But in a nice way.
Among the other things I really enjoy (yes actually) in Paraguay is my school. This is both because of the classes, that are sometimes actually interesting, and Andrés, a guy in my school who in an interesting turn of events I am going out with. This particular event has surprised pretty much everyone around me, and myself also, seeing as my idea when I came here was not to even come close to falling in love, a thought apparently made a lot easier by the fact that Paraguayan males in general are asses. Not this particular guy though.. His way of thinking and acting is so different from the majority of people here that I could have sworn he was European.
Even though we both are aware that I'm leaving all too soon, and against all rational judgement I possess, we decided to give it a try for now and later on see what will happen.

My new host family is the best family in history, I really really like them and feel so comfortable in the house. It's such an amazing difference from my first host family I almost can't believe it.

Although I am learning that problems never disappear but merely replace each other, I'm incredibly happy with my current life and have the mental strength to work through the issues as they appear.

Take care and stay safe

Hospitalized

I'm curious about Paraguay and want to try all it has to offer.
In this quest, I decided it was about time I experienced Paraguayan hospital from an inside perspective, and how uneasy it feels to get food poisoned.

I fell ill in school, with a mild fever and general pain and stiffness in my entire body (something I at the time viciously denied in an effort to convince myself I was fine or at least that I didn't have dengue..).
I then proceeded to sleep pretty much 20 hours straight and ingest a modest amount of water (which judging by my dehydration was too little..).

Now this should be known about Paraguayans in general: they think the best solution for everything is medicine. Just cover up the symptoms so that you don't feel them and you'll be great in no-time. Me? I think excessive medication is the most stupid thing in the modern society. According to me, a symptom should not be ignored and covered. And a moderate fever is a natural way to beat down intruders. Hence, I'm very prone to let it run its course, as long as it doesn't get over 40°C. This I tried to explain to four Paraguayans, all of which thought I was completely whacked in the head...

Anyhow, the fever didn't give in and during the night less pleasant symptoms started to appear (let's just say I had stomach issues and leave it at that..).

Mid-day Thursday I felt halfway dead and was brought to our "AFS-hospital", where everyone, including myself, was convinced I had gotten dengue.
Immediately blood samples were drawn to confirm the diagnosis, while I was put on IV- fluids and about 5 different kinds of medicine. It was here decided that I should be hospitalized.

The luckiest moment of my life might have been being told that I did not have dengue, but rather a pretty inconvenient food poisoning.
Making a long story short you could say that being in hospital is 2 % sort of interesting and 98% boring. Luckily for me, my friend/aunt/sister Jana stayed by my side, in an air conditioned, neat room with cable TV...

Among the things I discovered:
IV can hurt like a bitch when it has been stagnating a while, and that if you have the bag lower than your hand, blood may or may not start going in the opposite direction, which in spite of what one would be prone to think, actually does not hurt but can scare the living daylight out of you if you dislike blood.
Also, drawing blood hurts much less when it's done on you at 6 in the morning right after brutally waking you up...

I am now fine. Still a bit sensitive when it comes to eating and a bit weakened, but in general, I've never felt better.

Changing families

I am since Monday one of the many AFS participants in Paraguay who has changed hostfamilies.

My change was not due to maltreatment in any form, as has been the case with others, but rather because it is a fact that some people simply don't have chemistry.
I lived in my first house for 9 months, and despite trying to get into the family for this time-period, I grew more and more uncomfortable and suffocated in the house.
Also, my hostfather was a rather intimidating human being, and even though he was pleasant to me, he is very 'Paraguayan macho'(ie thinks his and only his opinion has any value and that my opinions are by default worthless and insignificant because I'm younger and female) and I never really got over my anxiety in his presence.

In my opinion, the major effort of an exchange student should not be trying to integrate with the family. Do not get it wrong, I think it is really important to be integrated in the family, but if it takes so much effort that it constitutes 90% of your worries -and still doesn't feel good- it simply isn't worth continuing. At least not for me, I didn't come to Paraguay to be stressed out by the fact that I don't function in a family that I just am not compatible with.
Sometimes, people are just..."the wrong sofa". It is pretty and comfortable but it simply does not fin in your living room...

So I have been discussing the subject with various AFS people over quite a large timespan(about 2 months) and last weekend my local counsellor decided that I HAD TO move.
So she took me under her motherly wings and let me stay in her house with her family.
I have now been here a little less than a week, and I already feel more comfortable here than I did in my first house after 9 months.
The family consists of Mariela, my hostmother (and also AFS-counsellor), her husband Olavo and two daughters (ie my hostsisters, Olinda and Oriana, 3 and 14 years old). They live with the parents of Olavo, and in an interesting twist of circumstances, my Belgian friend Jana is the hostkid of my host-grandparents, which technically makes her my host-aunt, although she is more my sister than anything else. We have realized that we might seem to be as different from each other that two people can possibly be, but we actually think the same and function well together. I love her.
In fact I feel an affectionate love towards all of my new family members, including the maid and the nanny who work here. And not because "I should", as it often felt in my first family, but just because I simply like then very much.

So nowadays I share room with Jana and Oriana. In an interesting, and for me extremely beneficial, twist of events, I got to sleep on the loft the room features, which was previously just a deposit of a darn huge amount of clothes. I have my own personal window, something I have not had in nine months (my first house was a bit depressing in that sense).

I am just very happy here. And very set on having three awesome last months of exchange.

Take care. Smile.